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[title] => Velika turistička patrola: ‘Iz Beograda smo, u Splitu nije skupo, uživamo‘, ‘Evo nas s autoputa. Nema uopće gužve‘
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Znate ono kad vas tjera gadan osjećaj da sve radite krivo?! Da svi idu u jednom pravcu, jedino vi u suprotnom. Da svi odoše na jedan tulum, samo vi na drugi. Da hvatate vlastiti rep i baš nikako da uspijete, vazda vam maše iz daleka…
E, tako je bilo i nama u subotu! Na cestama između Splita i Makarske: kud god mi okrenuli - turisti nisu tu!
Računalo se ovako: subota je, dan kada se obično gosti smjenjuju; prvi srpanjski vikend, pravo vrijeme za brojnije dolaske; kišovito vrijeme, svi će pohrliti u gradove, trgovačke centre i na kave, tko bi pametan u more; službene statistike i neslužbene najave govore da ipak masovnije stižu, eno i kamera na granicama i naplatnim kućicama oko Zagreba.
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Dobro, hajdemo…
Ali, kvragu, gdje su?!
Magistrala opustjela. Prošlo je deset ujutro. Sve se sivi, na cesti, na nebu i na žalu. Rominja kišica kroz Podstranu i Dugi Rat. Prije bi čovjek rekao da je nedjelja nego subota. I da je prvi rujna, a ne srpnja: kao da se more već hladi i sjene kao da su dulje. Ljeto kao da umire, umjesto da se rađa. I terase hotela odjednom se čine prostranijima, bend je pomalo umoran, parangali šarenih žarulja trepere od iznemoglosti. Sažeo bi Arsen: "More od olova i nebo od borova…"
Kao kroz mekan maslac
Kroz Omiš kao nožem kroz mekan maslac. Čak ni na prilazima mostu preko Cetine nema zastoja. Ni u samom centru, kod tržnice! Bobiji - prometna jedinica mladeži, kako su je birokratski maštovito već nazvali - nemaju zašto grozničavo puhati u zviždaljku i mahati rukama dok pješaci struje preko ceste.
Možda bude bolje na povratku. Evo i podneva! Na Dubcima, ili Vruji, kako hoćete, nikoga. Vrata su to za unutrašnjost i autocestu. Par starijih Nizozemaca ne zna gradi li se to dolje niz provaliju i u bisernoj uvali. Ili se ruši?! Jednako su im neobjašnjive obje teze. Ali uljudno kimaju glavom osmjehujući se. Kao mi kada ništa ne razumijemo a nemamo živaca raspetljavati.
Na Makarskoj rivijeri isto. Brela, naprimjer. Kao i u nizu mjesta prije: ima proplamsjaja i ponegdje plamičaka, ali je očito da su parkirališta kuća s apartmanima uz magistralu poluprazna. Zato gradilišta i dizalica ne manjka cijelim putem! Rodile kao pekarnice!
Provjeravamo i Googleove karte, ima onaj servis za stanje u prometu, cesta se crveni ako je zagužvana. Hm, radnim danom ujutro i popodne, oko odlaska i povratka s posla, ti crveni končići su puno dulji…
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U Baškoj Vodi prve laste! Stali smo u kraj, gdje Boris Krga i sin mu Vaso upravo silaze s motocikla, "Ducatija", očito su veliki ljubitelji kotača:
- Iz Beograda smo. Svake godine barem dvaput prođem ovuda na motoru. I ove sam već bio. Sad smo stali u Splitu, s društvom na jedrilici obišli Brač i vraćamo se kući. Obalom do Crne Gore, pa za Beograd.
- Ima li ikoga na cesti?
- Pre mesec dana nije bilo, sada već ima. Da li je skupo? Drugari mi kažu da na Hvaru jeste skupo, kugla sladoleda 3,5 - 4 evra, a u Splitu baš i ne. Dva evra. Nije ni u Beogradu manje. Ako si u centru mora da bude malo skuplje. Videćemo još u avgustu. Inače, u Splitu smo uživali…
- A Vaso?
- Prvi put s ćaletom na motoru, ekstra je bilo!
- Pa gde ne bi bilo?! Ajde, cice je gledo samo, 17 mu je godina tek...
Eto i prve - pokazat će se - jedine gužve te srpanjske subote. Baško Polje, začepilo čvor na kojemu se na Jadransku magistralu uključuju gosti koji su Zagvozdu izašli s autoceste i kroz biokovski tunel sveti Ilija sišli na obalu.
I radio javlja da je zastoj. Do Makarske! Desetak kilometara.
Na stanici uz magistralu, u smjeru Splita, skupina turista čeka autobus. Među njima Klaus Mayer, Pernille Bengtsen i Aviaja Schmidt-Hansen. Žive u Danskoj. Mladoj Aviaji nije ni do čega, blijeda kao krpa, ptoirna ko macaklin. Izdiše na kuferu. Da joj nešto nije dobro…
- Dulje od pola sata čekamo bus. Čep se neki stvorio. Bili smo tjedan dana u Baškoj Vodi i vrlo smo zadovoljni. Prvi put u Hrvatskoj, ali ćemo doći opet! More, otoci, plaže, sve super. I cijene su OK, osobito uspoređujući ih s danskima. Naprimjer, večera za troje stajala je 45 eura. U Danskoj bi to bilo možda i 90. Znači, dvostruko skuplje.
Planiraju provesti dan u Splitu i navečer avionom kući. Nego, nema još busa…
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U koloni i u letu hvatamo one koje lako i brzo razumijemo. I oni nas. Engleski baš i ne igra svima, pogotovo brzinski engleski u par nanosekundi na cesti i u gužvi.
Jedni s pločicama iz BiH:
- Taman upali u gužvu u Baškoj Vodi. Prije toga - ništa. Nismo s autoputa. Idemo mi u Drvenik, nije nam prvi put. Nas smo dvije kume, Dijana i Slavica, s djecom…
Drugi s pločicama iz BiH:
- Darko... Evo nas s autoputa. Nema gužve gore nikako, samo sad ovde. Pa na granici u Vinjanima nije bilo deset kola pred nama. Iz Broda smo, idemo u Promajnu. Eto, zdravo, ode nam kolona…
E, tu smo se i mi okrtenuli na kružnom toku i natrag ćemo na Dubce, pa uzbrdo: Gornja Brela, Zadvarje, Šestanovac, autocesta.
Pod kostelom, Jakša Jakir namjestio je stol, stolicu, proizvode i natpis: vino, prošek, m. ulje.
- U granicama je normale, gledano kroz ovi moj biznis. Teško mi je preciznije kazat. Ja se isto nadan sve rasprodat do prvi osmoga, oprat bačve i čekat novu berbu.
- Pa kad su najbolji dani?
- Suboton i sridon, kad su smjene. I utorkon…
- Ko se lud smjenjuje utorkon?
- Pazar je utorkon! Na Zadvarju... Liti bude sigurno 50 posto stranaca.
- Čuj?!
- Zanimljivo in, zeru infetanoga pršuta, zeru sira, soparnika. Onda, vole ti oni ove stare stvari: peglu, radijo, seoski alat. Dođu i na rafting.
- Koji su najbolji?
- Za ovi moja posal - Poljaci, brate! Oni odnesu 80 posto robe. Nešto Čeha i Slovaka, Njemaca malo manje.
Vino je u Jakiše po 4 eura, prošek 10, ulje već i 20. Zemlja mu je u onim donjim Brelima, na moru, odakle vuče korijen. Na moru i živi, u Baškoj Vodi. Ali dođe materi u Gornja Brela, pomogne, ne bi se žena kruha najela od muževe penzije - 250 eura.
Ne može Jakir još u krumpire, da je mokro. A nikada su veći! Kaže, ne zna što će s njima. Kao ni s povrćem:
- Magareća godina, sve rodilo! Vlažno je proliće bilo. Imat ću do dvi tone kumpira. O zelenome fažolu da i ne govorin. Tikvice isto, bit će mi i pomidor odličan.
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Fažol da je pet eura na Zadvarju, a u centrima i po osam!
Cestom dalje - ni vuka nit u gorici hajduka. Šestanovac, autocesta, Blato na Cetini. Kućice, tiketi, cestarina:
- Pa di su van pusti turisti?!
- Pusti, ne smin kazivat, od jutros su mi oči iskapile: 350 auta je ovda izašlo.
- Di će?
- Odoše doli po Omišu i Dućama, šta ja znaden. A sve duže relacije, od Zagreba i dalje gori...
Niza stranu Seoca, Zvečanje, Čisla, Gata. Kod Mile Gojsalića tek pojedinci snimaju spomenik i novi most pod njim, između dviju litica, odavde se čini kao da u škrpac stežu Omiš na ušću Cetine. Poljaci, ali nezgodno nam je stati. Još niže, radovi na cesti kojom će se pristupati mostu u zraku.
S mora se malo tko penje starom cestom prema Žrnovnici i Splitu. Znači: nema čepa u Omišu.
Popodnevni su već sati, a stanje skoro kao i ranije tog jutra. Usred grada, pokraj tržnice, Nina Pavičić i Andrea Bašić već dvije, tri sezone pomažu pješacima da prijeđu cestu. "Bobice" su.
- Po meni, otprilike isto ko i lani će bit. Realno, zasad nema vele gužve, lagano se tek zagrijavamo. Nije još krenila glavna sezona, ali već sredinon sedmoga miseca bude luda kuća.
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- Kojih je najviše?
- Zasad Poljaci, Česi, pa i naši. Malo Austrijanaca i Njemaca. Tek će gosti navalit, svake godine je tako. Jutros je bilo kiše, pa su valjda ostali u apartmanima, a sad je razvedrilo i već se spremaju na plažu. Ovi pješaci. Najviše ih bude navečer: vrate se s plaže, večeraju i malo izađu prošetat. Pa luna park, onda svi domaći, pa parovi, obitelji s dicon... Navečer bude krcat Omiš.
Natrag magistralom do Splita bez problema. Isparava jutrošnja kiša, sunce grije. Sparno je. Kao u ekspres-loncu. Gužve čak ni kod "Lava" i niz Strožanac nema. Minimalno, dok pješaci prelete magistralu koja na tom dijelu ima priključaka kao pristupna cesta, a trgovine, kafiće i restorane brze hrane da ne spominjemo.
Pa, dakle, gdje su onda ti gosti?! Ni u šumi ni u bunaru, rekao bi stari vic o misterioznim partizanima! A eno izvještaja s granica i autocesta, da konačno nadiru. i u valovima! Možda se ovuda šire tek kapilarnim putem, pa dok dođu do nas na dalekom jugu?!
Al da ne bi tih junaka, Čeha dobrih i Slovaka, uvelo bi naše cvijeće, obrati ga nitko neće…
Eto, upitajte Beroša ako nama ne vjerujete: iduća dva tjedna su ključna!
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[text] => {OCMSplitter}
Znate ono kad vas tjera gadan osjećaj da sve radite krivo?! Da svi idu u jednom pravcu, jedino vi u suprotnom. Da svi odoše na jedan tulum, samo vi na drugi. Da hvatate vlastiti rep i baš nikako da uspijete, vazda vam maše iz daleka…
E, tako je bilo i nama u subotu! Na cestama između Splita i Makarske: kud god mi okrenuli - turisti nisu tu!
Računalo se ovako: subota je, dan kada se obično gosti smjenjuju; prvi srpanjski vikend, pravo vrijeme za brojnije dolaske; kišovito vrijeme, svi će pohrliti u gradove, trgovačke centre i na kave, tko bi pametan u more; službene statistike i neslužbene najave govore da ipak masovnije stižu, eno i kamera na granicama i naplatnim kućicama oko Zagreba.
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Dobro, hajdemo…
Ali, kvragu, gdje su?!
Magistrala opustjela. Prošlo je deset ujutro. Sve se sivi, na cesti, na nebu i na žalu. Rominja kišica kroz Podstranu i Dugi Rat. Prije bi čovjek rekao da je nedjelja nego subota. I da je prvi rujna, a ne srpnja: kao da se more već hladi i sjene kao da su dulje. Ljeto kao da umire, umjesto da se rađa. I terase hotela odjednom se čine prostranijima, bend je pomalo umoran, parangali šarenih žarulja trepere od iznemoglosti. Sažeo bi Arsen: "More od olova i nebo od borova…"
Kao kroz mekan maslac
Kroz Omiš kao nožem kroz mekan maslac. Čak ni na prilazima mostu preko Cetine nema zastoja. Ni u samom centru, kod tržnice! Bobiji - prometna jedinica mladeži, kako su je birokratski maštovito već nazvali - nemaju zašto grozničavo puhati u zviždaljku i mahati rukama dok pješaci struje preko ceste.
Možda bude bolje na povratku. Evo i podneva! Na Dubcima, ili Vruji, kako hoćete, nikoga. Vrata su to za unutrašnjost i autocestu. Par starijih Nizozemaca ne zna gradi li se to dolje niz provaliju i u bisernoj uvali. Ili se ruši?! Jednako su im neobjašnjive obje teze. Ali uljudno kimaju glavom osmjehujući se. Kao mi kada ništa ne razumijemo a nemamo živaca raspetljavati.
Na Makarskoj rivijeri isto. Brela, naprimjer. Kao i u nizu mjesta prije: ima proplamsjaja i ponegdje plamičaka, ali je očito da su parkirališta kuća s apartmanima uz magistralu poluprazna. Zato gradilišta i dizalica ne manjka cijelim putem! Rodile kao pekarnice!
Provjeravamo i Googleove karte, ima onaj servis za stanje u prometu, cesta se crveni ako je zagužvana. Hm, radnim danom ujutro i popodne, oko odlaska i povratka s posla, ti crveni končići su puno dulji…
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U Baškoj Vodi prve laste! Stali smo u kraj, gdje Boris Krga i sin mu Vaso upravo silaze s motocikla, "Ducatija", očito su veliki ljubitelji kotača:
- Iz Beograda smo. Svake godine barem dvaput prođem ovuda na motoru. I ove sam već bio. Sad smo stali u Splitu, s društvom na jedrilici obišli Brač i vraćamo se kući. Obalom do Crne Gore, pa za Beograd.
- Ima li ikoga na cesti?
- Pre mesec dana nije bilo, sada već ima. Da li je skupo? Drugari mi kažu da na Hvaru jeste skupo, kugla sladoleda 3,5 - 4 evra, a u Splitu baš i ne. Dva evra. Nije ni u Beogradu manje. Ako si u centru mora da bude malo skuplje. Videćemo još u avgustu. Inače, u Splitu smo uživali…
- A Vaso?
- Prvi put s ćaletom na motoru, ekstra je bilo!
- Pa gde ne bi bilo?! Ajde, cice je gledo samo, 17 mu je godina tek...
Eto i prve - pokazat će se - jedine gužve te srpanjske subote. Baško Polje, začepilo čvor na kojemu se na Jadransku magistralu uključuju gosti koji su Zagvozdu izašli s autoceste i kroz biokovski tunel sveti Ilija sišli na obalu.
I radio javlja da je zastoj. Do Makarske! Desetak kilometara.
Na stanici uz magistralu, u smjeru Splita, skupina turista čeka autobus. Među njima Klaus Mayer, Pernille Bengtsen i Aviaja Schmidt-Hansen. Žive u Danskoj. Mladoj Aviaji nije ni do čega, blijeda kao krpa, ptoirna ko macaklin. Izdiše na kuferu. Da joj nešto nije dobro…
- Dulje od pola sata čekamo bus. Čep se neki stvorio. Bili smo tjedan dana u Baškoj Vodi i vrlo smo zadovoljni. Prvi put u Hrvatskoj, ali ćemo doći opet! More, otoci, plaže, sve super. I cijene su OK, osobito uspoređujući ih s danskima. Naprimjer, večera za troje stajala je 45 eura. U Danskoj bi to bilo možda i 90. Znači, dvostruko skuplje.
Planiraju provesti dan u Splitu i navečer avionom kući. Nego, nema još busa…
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U koloni i u letu hvatamo one koje lako i brzo razumijemo. I oni nas. Engleski baš i ne igra svima, pogotovo brzinski engleski u par nanosekundi na cesti i u gužvi.
Jedni s pločicama iz BiH:
- Taman upali u gužvu u Baškoj Vodi. Prije toga - ništa. Nismo s autoputa. Idemo mi u Drvenik, nije nam prvi put. Nas smo dvije kume, Dijana i Slavica, s djecom…
Drugi s pločicama iz BiH:
- Darko... Evo nas s autoputa. Nema gužve gore nikako, samo sad ovde. Pa na granici u Vinjanima nije bilo deset kola pred nama. Iz Broda smo, idemo u Promajnu. Eto, zdravo, ode nam kolona…
E, tu smo se i mi okrtenuli na kružnom toku i natrag ćemo na Dubce, pa uzbrdo: Gornja Brela, Zadvarje, Šestanovac, autocesta.
Pod kostelom, Jakša Jakir namjestio je stol, stolicu, proizvode i natpis: vino, prošek, m. ulje.
- U granicama je normale, gledano kroz ovi moj biznis. Teško mi je preciznije kazat. Ja se isto nadan sve rasprodat do prvi osmoga, oprat bačve i čekat novu berbu.
- Pa kad su najbolji dani?
- Suboton i sridon, kad su smjene. I utorkon…
- Ko se lud smjenjuje utorkon?
- Pazar je utorkon! Na Zadvarju... Liti bude sigurno 50 posto stranaca.
- Čuj?!
- Zanimljivo in, zeru infetanoga pršuta, zeru sira, soparnika. Onda, vole ti oni ove stare stvari: peglu, radijo, seoski alat. Dođu i na rafting.
- Koji su najbolji?
- Za ovi moja posal - Poljaci, brate! Oni odnesu 80 posto robe. Nešto Čeha i Slovaka, Njemaca malo manje.
Vino je u Jakiše po 4 eura, prošek 10, ulje već i 20. Zemlja mu je u onim donjim Brelima, na moru, odakle vuče korijen. Na moru i živi, u Baškoj Vodi. Ali dođe materi u Gornja Brela, pomogne, ne bi se žena kruha najela od muževe penzije - 250 eura.
Ne može Jakir još u krumpire, da je mokro. A nikada su veći! Kaže, ne zna što će s njima. Kao ni s povrćem:
- Magareća godina, sve rodilo! Vlažno je proliće bilo. Imat ću do dvi tone kumpira. O zelenome fažolu da i ne govorin. Tikvice isto, bit će mi i pomidor odličan.
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Fažol da je pet eura na Zadvarju, a u centrima i po osam!
Cestom dalje - ni vuka nit u gorici hajduka. Šestanovac, autocesta, Blato na Cetini. Kućice, tiketi, cestarina:
- Pa di su van pusti turisti?!
- Pusti, ne smin kazivat, od jutros su mi oči iskapile: 350 auta je ovda izašlo.
- Di će?
- Odoše doli po Omišu i Dućama, šta ja znaden. A sve duže relacije, od Zagreba i dalje gori...
Niza stranu Seoca, Zvečanje, Čisla, Gata. Kod Mile Gojsalića tek pojedinci snimaju spomenik i novi most pod njim, između dviju litica, odavde se čini kao da u škrpac stežu Omiš na ušću Cetine. Poljaci, ali nezgodno nam je stati. Još niže, radovi na cesti kojom će se pristupati mostu u zraku.
S mora se malo tko penje starom cestom prema Žrnovnici i Splitu. Znači: nema čepa u Omišu.
Popodnevni su već sati, a stanje skoro kao i ranije tog jutra. Usred grada, pokraj tržnice, Nina Pavičić i Andrea Bašić već dvije, tri sezone pomažu pješacima da prijeđu cestu. "Bobice" su.
- Po meni, otprilike isto ko i lani će bit. Realno, zasad nema vele gužve, lagano se tek zagrijavamo. Nije još krenila glavna sezona, ali već sredinon sedmoga miseca bude luda kuća.
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- Kojih je najviše?
- Zasad Poljaci, Česi, pa i naši. Malo Austrijanaca i Njemaca. Tek će gosti navalit, svake godine je tako. Jutros je bilo kiše, pa su valjda ostali u apartmanima, a sad je razvedrilo i već se spremaju na plažu. Ovi pješaci. Najviše ih bude navečer: vrate se s plaže, večeraju i malo izađu prošetat. Pa luna park, onda svi domaći, pa parovi, obitelji s dicon... Navečer bude krcat Omiš.
Natrag magistralom do Splita bez problema. Isparava jutrošnja kiša, sunce grije. Sparno je. Kao u ekspres-loncu. Gužve čak ni kod "Lava" i niz Strožanac nema. Minimalno, dok pješaci prelete magistralu koja na tom dijelu ima priključaka kao pristupna cesta, a trgovine, kafiće i restorane brze hrane da ne spominjemo.
Pa, dakle, gdje su onda ti gosti?! Ni u šumi ni u bunaru, rekao bi stari vic o misterioznim partizanima! A eno izvještaja s granica i autocesta, da konačno nadiru. i u valovima! Možda se ovuda šire tek kapilarnim putem, pa dok dođu do nas na dalekom jugu?!
Al da ne bi tih junaka, Čeha dobrih i Slovaka, uvelo bi naše cvijeće, obrati ga nitko neće…
Eto, upitajte Beroša ako nama ne vjerujete: iduća dva tjedna su ključna!
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20. svibanj 2024 02:20
